A Stranger with a Surprise

Last Wednesday I went to the gym to work out and made an unexpected friend. When I walked into the gym, there was an older lady already there, so I smiled and said hello and went on with my own workout. As she was leaving she stopped to ask me if I knew her. I had a slight momentary panic thinking that I had met her before and forgot, but luckily that was not the case. 

She said that since I smiled at her, she thought we might have met before and she forgot. In reality it was our first time to meet, so we introduced ourselves and chatted for a minute. She was very friendly and even spoke to me in English the whole time! She asked if I go to the gym often, to which I replied that I do and almost always go on Wednesdays. She said she hoped to see me every week and then she said she had a handmade Japanese thing she wanted to give to me and that she would bring it next week.

On Sunday evening I went to the gym again, upon entering the locker room after my workout I saw this lady again! As soon as she saw me she delightedly said hello and asked me to wait a minute for her to run out to her car and get this item she wanted to give me. I laughed and said of course I would wait and off she ran to her car. 

She returned holding a box and told me to go ahead and open it. Inside was a set of two lacquerware bowls with chopsticks and matching chopstick rests. She told me it is Wajima lacquerware.

Wajima is a town north of where I live that is famous for their production of completely handmade, high quality lacquerware. Lacquerware is dishes (and other items) that are carved from wood, then painted with black lacquer and often colorful designs. This lacquerware is a luxury item that is famous throughout Japan for its beautiful artwork. I could not believe it when she told me it is Wajima lacquerware! The set she gave me are traditional miso soup bowls, black with red inside the bowl. 

This lady actually lives on the same street as I do, so now I know one of my neighbors (outside of my apartment building)! She apparently used to be a science teacher in Kobe and Tokyo but returned to Noto, her hometown, after finishing her career. She is excited to practice her English with me, and said she would try to have an English question for me every time we meet!

Yesterday I made a dinner of Japanese-Western fusion cuisine. The main dish was 和風 spaghetti, 和風 means Japanese style, so it is spaghetti with Japanese flavors. I put in bacon, mushrooms, and soy sauce and then topped it with spring onions and seaweed. On the side I had miso soup and sauteed asparagus and nagaimo. Nagaimo is an Asian root vegetable with very slippery white flesh.

Part II: My lovely dinner turns into a great bento to take to work for lunch!

Graduation Paper Making

In Japan it is traditional for junior high students to hand-make the paper that is used for their diplomas. Every year, the third years (who will graduate) take a field trip to a place to make paper. And after the paper is ready and delivered to the schools, the principal hand-writes each diploma by himself. This year I was lucky to receive an invitation to accompany one of my third year classes for their paper making trip!

I climbed aboard a bus with eighteen of my third year students and we headed to a local paper mill. First we sat around tables and arranged pressed flowers on paper that was already made for souvenir bookmarks.

Next we went into the paper production room, to learn how to make paper ourselves. There was a big tub set up inside a wooden frame where they had the water and fibers swirling around. One at a time we each made one sheet of pale gold paper. We were given a wood frame with an attached wire mesh screen which we dipped into the water and then drained twice. The old ladies were very strict about how we shook the frame to evenly spread the fibers. After that we waited for the water to drain out of the paper, then we had to carefully place it onto the stack with the other paper, press all the water out, and then remove the frame without disturbing the shape of the wet paper. After we finished making the diploma paper, we were kindly treated to fresh boiled sweet potatoes and hot chocolate! 

The students made their paper in a certain order following a list, that way on graduation day each student actually received the paper that he or she made. It is a really neat tradition, and I am so grateful they took me along to take part in it!

卒業

Mid march is graduation season in Japan, which is an important event at not only university and high school level but also junior high, elementary, and even nursery school!

I was able to attend the graduation ceremonies of two of my junior high schools and one of my elementary schools. Graduation is a very solemn ceremony here and every detail is performed with the sharpest precision. Everybody dresses to the nines for the occasion, mostly in black suits but a few people even wear kimono. The men wore white shirts with white ties under their black suits, and many men even wore a double breasted suit! The principal at each school wore a long tailed jacket and pinstriped pants suit, and had white gloves to wear while he handed students their diplomas. 

The ceremony opened with everyone singing the national anthem and then the school song. After that the diploma granting process began, similar to American graduation ceremonies except that the Japanese version has such exacting precision!. The students marched up to the stage in a carefully choreographed path, with military style turns, and pauses so that the time to grant the diploma was the same for each student. The principal reads the diploma and hands it to the students who receive it with a very formal bow. After bowing the students tuck the diploma under their left arm and walk off stage. This elaborate attention to detail was observed at each graduation I went to. 

Following the diploma conferral, the speeches commenced. A panel of high level people in the community attended the graduations, even at the elementary level. The principal, mayor, PTA president, and a representative from the Board of Education each gave a speech. Next was the student's part of graduation, which was of course the most personal part. 

A representative of the graduating class gave a speech of thanks, farewell, and reminiscence. Then each of the team captains gave speeches especially for their teammates and coaches. It was at this juncture that, particularly at one of my schools, everyone opened the floodgates. The baseball team captain broke down in sobs during his speech, which triggered tears from everyone else as well. One minute everyone in the room is solemn and quiet, the next I looked around and all the students and teachers are sobbing!

After the graduates finished their speeches, the younger students gave their speeches of farewell. Then both groups of students sang a song to each other. The singing segment is another emotionally charged part of graduation which brings teachers, students and mothers to tears. 

The graduation stage is adorned with flowers, the city, Japanese, and school flags, a well as a bonsai tree!

Graduations generally last about an hour and a half, and this society really shows it's discipline by nobody speaking a word! It is incredibly respectful and impressive that even the 6 year old first graders can accomplish this.

After graduation is over, there is one last fun Japanese tradition. The students all make two lines with clasped hands for the graduates to run through as they exit school "for the last time." If the weather is nice, everyone lines up outside in the parking lot. Next is a long goodbye, filled with tears, hugs, pictures, and lots of running around the parking lot.

The graduation ceremonies are very solemn and important events. They even have a couple professional photographers and camera men come in to record the proceedings. However, despite of all this grandeur and solemnity hardly any family shows up to support the graduating students. Of course family is always welcome, I was told by a teacher, but usually only one person per student shows up to see their child graduate. At first I was surprised that only one parent comes. In America, the entire family plus grandparents and sometimes more come to see their kids graduate! 

But after thinking about it, I suppose this could reflect that the Japanese generally do not mix their social circles, work and family. So perhaps at a thing like graduation it is important to have your school circle- classmates, teachers, etc- around you but not so much your family. Accordingly, your family's presence would be important for other life events, where your school/work circles would not be expected to attend. (For instance, from what I have observed about most weddings here, it seems they tend to invite friends and family only. Often co-workers do not even realize or know any details about the person's wedding.)

One perk of graduation time is awesome lunches! Since it is not a regular school day we do not have school lunch provided. Instead, we order bentos delivered to the school for the teachers, who have to remain at school for the rest of the work day. The food is always delicious! Japanese style eating is characterized by eating small portions of many, many, different foods in one meal. So a bento is a Japanese meal served in a box, like a lunchbox, with many different items to enjoy. 

Nara

Two weeks ago I had a four day weekend, so I went on a spontaneous little trip to Nara! Originally I had really really wanted to go to Hokkaido for the famous Yuki Matsuri but that fell through. Then my plans changed to Hiroshima. Then to Tokyo.  But a third time my plans were dashed.

I was so excited about going to Tokyo- even more than all my previous plans! I love Tokyo so much and the trip gave me the opportunity to see everyone I met last year during my internship. I secured a bus ticket to Tokyo, and began making plans with all of my friends from Toshiba! I had arrangements to go out with groups of everyone for every single day that I would be in Tokyo! It seemed as though it would be a perfect reunion.

However, on Friday night, the day before I was scheduled to get on the bus, the heavy snow warnings came in. That weekend, Tokyo was hit with a great snowstorm and was expecting lots of snow. That night I could not even sleep, I was waking up every hour automatically to check the weather and check the bus site. At three in the morning, I saw the the buses were indeed suspended- I had no way to get to Tokyo.

I was very disappointed, I had wanted to see my Tokyo friends so badly. I was left with the dismal prospects of spending a four day weekend sitting around my house, it seemed like such a waste. I decided I must salvage the time somehow. I started thinking about destinations to my south, somewhere I could go without having to worry about trains being stopped for the snow. At first I thought, Kyoto sounds great. I love Kyoto and its close enough that I can schedule a last minute trip with no problem. Then, I had an even better idea- I would go see Nara!

Nara was the original capitol of Japan (before Kyoto) from 710-784. It is a very old city, with its own unique attractions. Perhaps the most well known fact about Nara is the abundant deer population that resides right in the middle of the city. According to legend, when Nara was founded a god called Takemizakuchi arrived on a white deer at the (since then) sacred Mikasayama Hill to guard the new capitol. Since then, the deer have been regarded as heavenly and are well taken care of. The deer live on the grounds of Nara Park which is right in the middle of the historical area of Nara. Surrounding the park are several temples, shrines, and other landmarks which the deer freely roam about at their leisure.

So after my sleepless night, I decided at 4 that morning to make my first visit to Nara. I got up and drove down to Anamizu (the town with the closest station, about 35 minutes from my house) to hop on a train bound for Nara.

The train I rode, decorated with pictures of flowers and characters.

While riding the train I enjoyed watching the landscape as it was steadily filling with snow. Even on the West coast, that weekend had the greatest snowfall that I know of so far this winter. There was seven inches of standing snow when I left Ishikawa- which is the most snow I have ever seen!

Nara was beautiful and I loved it very much. It is a nice size city and I found the most comfortable and quaint neighborhoods there. It felt like the kind of place you can retire in. Even though I spent only three days there I can say it might be my second favorite city in Japan. Like I said, Nara just felt like the kind of place that would be wonderful to live in.

First night in Nara

After taking a bullet train down to Kyoto, I hopped on a local train for the hour long ride into Nara. I arrived in the evening and checked in to my hostel to drop off my bag before setting out for my first evening of exploring. At the hostel I met a few other foreigners who were visiting and had just checked in that evening as well. After dark fell, I along with the three foreigners (a German girl and two French guys) I met at the hostel, walked through the illumination event that the city of Nara had set up for the winter season.

It was a course through most of the famous sights in Nara (since the temples and deer park are all in one area anyway) that was beautifully lit up with Christmas lights.

First deer sighting!

The Kohfukuji Eastern Golden Hall, special because all of the statues inside are carved from wood rather than stone.  The original structure was built in 726 A.D. by command of Emperor Shomu who wanted to speed the recovery of Empress Gensho, his aunt and ruler of Japan before him, who was ill. Since the original construction the structure has been destroyed by fire and rebuilt five times. The current structure was erected in 1415. The five storied pagoda was built by Emperor Shomu's wife, Empress Komyo. So this pair of buildings represents the ideal of marital harmony.

Halfway through the course, there was even a place that had rows and rows of nabe vendors! Nabe is a type of soup that is cooked in a ceramic dish called a hotpot. There were probably about 40 vendors each selling nabe with their own taste, ingredients and style. It was fantastic! I had two delicious steaming bowls. I started with a "yuki nabe," which was made with a pale creamy broth. Then I had a spicy nabe with pork stomach in it. Both were phenomenal.

Top- yuki nabe (snow nabe), bottom spicy nabe

The sea of lights that is the Nara Illumination

Before entering the path that guides visitors through the lights, everyone was given a piece of paper to write their wish on. At this focal point in the path guests were invited to tie their wish onto the structure in the hopes that it will come true.

 Day 1 in Nara

After a great night's sleep in my bunk bed at the hostel, I awoke ready to get out and explore Nara in the daylight. My first destination was Nara Park- to see the deer up close. It turns out my Nara trip was very luckily timed. From February 1st until March 16th they have the Shika Yose or Deer Call. This is an annual event that started in 1892, during which someone goes out to a large clearing in the middle of the park and plays a horn. Upon hearing the sound of the horn, hundreds of deer come running out from deep within the trees and gather around the horn player. The deer in Nara are very accustomed to humans and being fed, so they have no reservations in walking up to you in search of deer senbei. The senbei are special crackers to feed the deer with, which you can buy at a stand around the park.

This video shows the special Deer Calling event, which is held annually for only a month and a half.

After buying a package of senbei, I was immediately swarmed by pushy deer!

This lady was selling fresh sweet potatoes roasted in her portable cast iron smoker.

After petting and feeding the deer for awhile, I left the park to walk around the sights of Nara. My first stop was the pretty Umikido Gazebo which was built over the water.

After leaving the gazebo, I took the Kasugayama Primeval Forest trail that leads to Kasaga Taisha (Kasuga Grand Shrine). It was very pretty and peaceful to walk through the quiet forest. Logging and hunting in the forest were banned in 841 and the forest is recognized as a World Heritage Site.

Before finding the main sanctuary and gardens, I stumbled upon several shrines while strolling the forest path that are part of the Kasuga Taisha grounds. The first shrine I saw is devoted to love. Called Meoto Daikokusha, it is said to be the only shrine that honors married couple deities. Accordingly, people worship there to receive the deities' grace in match-making and happy marriage. Further along the trail opens up to the main gate and sanctuary of Kasuga Taisha. Kasuga Taisha was founded in 768 when Nara was nominated as the ancient capitol city of Japan. After the deity Takemikazuchi landed on Mikasayama Hill, this shrine was built on the hillside to honor him. Takemikazuchi is credited with helping keep peace among all deities. Two other deities are also enshrined in the main sanctuary; Amenokoyane who is the deity of ritual ceremony and politics, as well as his consort, Himegami, who is the deity of love and peace. There are 3,000 Kasuga shrines around Japan, and here at the Grand Shrine there are 3,000 lanterns hung in the buildings and standing along the forest path in honor of the Kasuga shrines throughout Japan.

The path through the Kasugayama Primeval Forest 

The stone lantern lined path, leading up to the main gate of Kasuga Taisha

Kasaga Taisha, main gate

While I was there, some nuns were having a special ceremony

A dark room inside the shrine displaying the gorgeous wrought iron lanterns

After appreciating Kasuga Taisha and its 3,000 lanterns, I continued on my exploration of the historical sights in Nara.

A deer- welcoming visitors into this restaurant

 My next destination was Todaiji. Todaiji is the home of the largest Buddha in Japan and is the Head Temple of the Kegon Sect of Buddhism. Todaiji was originally built in the Nara period (710-794 AD) by Emperor Shomu. Due to damage from fires of war, the current building is in its third generation. Although the current structure is 33% smaller in width than the original building, it is still the largest wooden structure in the world. The Vairocana Buddha inside is made from cast bronze which was then plated with gold. Although this statue was consecrated in 752, it has been damaged and repaired in the following centuries. The current head was made during the Edo period (1650-1867). 

Outside of Todaiji, an enormous structure housing Japan's largest Buddha

The largest Buddha in Japan

One of the guardians of the Buddha. Many of the statues in Nara are carved from wood rather than stone

By this time, I was ready for lunch. So I found a recommended local restaurant and got in line to enter. I remember waiting in line for about 25 minutes before I was actually seated in this popular cafe!

Waiting in line to enter a restaurant that serves a Nara specialty, kawameshi

Kamameshi is a rice dish cooked with different toppings (I chose the recommended shrimp, eel, and green peas) in a metal bowl with a wooden top. And it was delicious! I was seated at a table with couple who were in Nara for the day, and were very pleasant to talk with. We both mentioned going to a local sake brewery located in the trendy Naramachi district, so we decided to head there together after lunch. Along the way we made a couple stops!

At the entrance of Nara Park there were a couple of Cherry Blossom trees with winter blooms!

Before heading to the sake shop, we stopped by a famous little mitarashi dango shop. Dango is a sticky Japanese confection made of rice flour, and it comes in many flavors which are eaten year round or even reserved for special seasons. Mitarashi is a type which is plain white dango grilled and then topped with a sweet soy sauce. After this little treat, we went to the Harushika Sake Brewery. There I sat down for a tasting and was given samples of five varieties of sake with an explanation of each one provided by the staff.

Grilling some fresh mitarashi dango

Day 2 in Nara

My second day in Nara I woke up early ready to see a few last minute sights before making my way back to Ishikawa. My first mission was to find a high place from which I could look out over the city. There is no tower in Nara, however the City building has a rooftop observatory so I headed that way.

Here you can see  the view of Todaiji looming over the trees on the left, and to the right the burnt Wakakusama Hill. It is burned annually in a cooperative event between the priests of Todaiji and Kasaga Taisha

This view shows Empress Komyo's five storied pagoda rising above the Nara skyline

My next stop was the Isuien Garden, carefully laid out with stepping stone paths and expertly located ponds and teahouses. 

One of the three tea houses located in the garden

I spent the rest of the afternoon walking up and down the shopping streets of Nara. They were full of little shops purveying traditional goods, modern goods, vintage clothes, sweet and salty treats and more. Nara has lots of stores specializing in handmade everything from foods to tapestries. On my out of town I stopped for a couple last minute specialty foods.

I went to an old calligraphy brush shop, where the lady taught me how to sculpt the bristles and make my own handmade calligraphy brush.

Tea flavored kit kats that I found in Kyoto- very tasty. Since coming to Japan I have tasted many different flavors of kit kats and with each new flavor I am more filled with pity that America only gets plain chocolate ones, when the other flavors are so much better!

A Nara specialty called kaki no ha sushi is pictured below- it usually made from salmon, mackerel and trout. The fish is cured and then placed on rice that is inside a wooden box. The sushi is then compressed, and cut into rectangles. After that each piece is wrapped in a cured persimmon leaf and boxed up again. This process of preparation helps the sushi to keep longer, so it is a great food for traveling or picnics.