Nara

Two weeks ago I had a four day weekend, so I went on a spontaneous little trip to Nara! Originally I had really really wanted to go to Hokkaido for the famous Yuki Matsuri but that fell through. Then my plans changed to Hiroshima. Then to Tokyo.  But a third time my plans were dashed.

I was so excited about going to Tokyo- even more than all my previous plans! I love Tokyo so much and the trip gave me the opportunity to see everyone I met last year during my internship. I secured a bus ticket to Tokyo, and began making plans with all of my friends from Toshiba! I had arrangements to go out with groups of everyone for every single day that I would be in Tokyo! It seemed as though it would be a perfect reunion.

However, on Friday night, the day before I was scheduled to get on the bus, the heavy snow warnings came in. That weekend, Tokyo was hit with a great snowstorm and was expecting lots of snow. That night I could not even sleep, I was waking up every hour automatically to check the weather and check the bus site. At three in the morning, I saw the the buses were indeed suspended- I had no way to get to Tokyo.

I was very disappointed, I had wanted to see my Tokyo friends so badly. I was left with the dismal prospects of spending a four day weekend sitting around my house, it seemed like such a waste. I decided I must salvage the time somehow. I started thinking about destinations to my south, somewhere I could go without having to worry about trains being stopped for the snow. At first I thought, Kyoto sounds great. I love Kyoto and its close enough that I can schedule a last minute trip with no problem. Then, I had an even better idea- I would go see Nara!

Nara was the original capitol of Japan (before Kyoto) from 710-784. It is a very old city, with its own unique attractions. Perhaps the most well known fact about Nara is the abundant deer population that resides right in the middle of the city. According to legend, when Nara was founded a god called Takemizakuchi arrived on a white deer at the (since then) sacred Mikasayama Hill to guard the new capitol. Since then, the deer have been regarded as heavenly and are well taken care of. The deer live on the grounds of Nara Park which is right in the middle of the historical area of Nara. Surrounding the park are several temples, shrines, and other landmarks which the deer freely roam about at their leisure.

So after my sleepless night, I decided at 4 that morning to make my first visit to Nara. I got up and drove down to Anamizu (the town with the closest station, about 35 minutes from my house) to hop on a train bound for Nara.

The train I rode, decorated with pictures of flowers and characters.

While riding the train I enjoyed watching the landscape as it was steadily filling with snow. Even on the West coast, that weekend had the greatest snowfall that I know of so far this winter. There was seven inches of standing snow when I left Ishikawa- which is the most snow I have ever seen!

Nara was beautiful and I loved it very much. It is a nice size city and I found the most comfortable and quaint neighborhoods there. It felt like the kind of place you can retire in. Even though I spent only three days there I can say it might be my second favorite city in Japan. Like I said, Nara just felt like the kind of place that would be wonderful to live in.

First night in Nara

After taking a bullet train down to Kyoto, I hopped on a local train for the hour long ride into Nara. I arrived in the evening and checked in to my hostel to drop off my bag before setting out for my first evening of exploring. At the hostel I met a few other foreigners who were visiting and had just checked in that evening as well. After dark fell, I along with the three foreigners (a German girl and two French guys) I met at the hostel, walked through the illumination event that the city of Nara had set up for the winter season.

It was a course through most of the famous sights in Nara (since the temples and deer park are all in one area anyway) that was beautifully lit up with Christmas lights.

First deer sighting!

The Kohfukuji Eastern Golden Hall, special because all of the statues inside are carved from wood rather than stone.  The original structure was built in 726 A.D. by command of Emperor Shomu who wanted to speed the recovery of Empress Gensho, his aunt and ruler of Japan before him, who was ill. Since the original construction the structure has been destroyed by fire and rebuilt five times. The current structure was erected in 1415. The five storied pagoda was built by Emperor Shomu's wife, Empress Komyo. So this pair of buildings represents the ideal of marital harmony.

Halfway through the course, there was even a place that had rows and rows of nabe vendors! Nabe is a type of soup that is cooked in a ceramic dish called a hotpot. There were probably about 40 vendors each selling nabe with their own taste, ingredients and style. It was fantastic! I had two delicious steaming bowls. I started with a "yuki nabe," which was made with a pale creamy broth. Then I had a spicy nabe with pork stomach in it. Both were phenomenal.

Top- yuki nabe (snow nabe), bottom spicy nabe

The sea of lights that is the Nara Illumination

Before entering the path that guides visitors through the lights, everyone was given a piece of paper to write their wish on. At this focal point in the path guests were invited to tie their wish onto the structure in the hopes that it will come true.

 Day 1 in Nara

After a great night's sleep in my bunk bed at the hostel, I awoke ready to get out and explore Nara in the daylight. My first destination was Nara Park- to see the deer up close. It turns out my Nara trip was very luckily timed. From February 1st until March 16th they have the Shika Yose or Deer Call. This is an annual event that started in 1892, during which someone goes out to a large clearing in the middle of the park and plays a horn. Upon hearing the sound of the horn, hundreds of deer come running out from deep within the trees and gather around the horn player. The deer in Nara are very accustomed to humans and being fed, so they have no reservations in walking up to you in search of deer senbei. The senbei are special crackers to feed the deer with, which you can buy at a stand around the park.

This video shows the special Deer Calling event, which is held annually for only a month and a half.

After buying a package of senbei, I was immediately swarmed by pushy deer!

This lady was selling fresh sweet potatoes roasted in her portable cast iron smoker.

After petting and feeding the deer for awhile, I left the park to walk around the sights of Nara. My first stop was the pretty Umikido Gazebo which was built over the water.

After leaving the gazebo, I took the Kasugayama Primeval Forest trail that leads to Kasaga Taisha (Kasuga Grand Shrine). It was very pretty and peaceful to walk through the quiet forest. Logging and hunting in the forest were banned in 841 and the forest is recognized as a World Heritage Site.

Before finding the main sanctuary and gardens, I stumbled upon several shrines while strolling the forest path that are part of the Kasuga Taisha grounds. The first shrine I saw is devoted to love. Called Meoto Daikokusha, it is said to be the only shrine that honors married couple deities. Accordingly, people worship there to receive the deities' grace in match-making and happy marriage. Further along the trail opens up to the main gate and sanctuary of Kasuga Taisha. Kasuga Taisha was founded in 768 when Nara was nominated as the ancient capitol city of Japan. After the deity Takemikazuchi landed on Mikasayama Hill, this shrine was built on the hillside to honor him. Takemikazuchi is credited with helping keep peace among all deities. Two other deities are also enshrined in the main sanctuary; Amenokoyane who is the deity of ritual ceremony and politics, as well as his consort, Himegami, who is the deity of love and peace. There are 3,000 Kasuga shrines around Japan, and here at the Grand Shrine there are 3,000 lanterns hung in the buildings and standing along the forest path in honor of the Kasuga shrines throughout Japan.

The path through the Kasugayama Primeval Forest 

The stone lantern lined path, leading up to the main gate of Kasuga Taisha

Kasaga Taisha, main gate

While I was there, some nuns were having a special ceremony

A dark room inside the shrine displaying the gorgeous wrought iron lanterns

After appreciating Kasuga Taisha and its 3,000 lanterns, I continued on my exploration of the historical sights in Nara.

A deer- welcoming visitors into this restaurant

 My next destination was Todaiji. Todaiji is the home of the largest Buddha in Japan and is the Head Temple of the Kegon Sect of Buddhism. Todaiji was originally built in the Nara period (710-794 AD) by Emperor Shomu. Due to damage from fires of war, the current building is in its third generation. Although the current structure is 33% smaller in width than the original building, it is still the largest wooden structure in the world. The Vairocana Buddha inside is made from cast bronze which was then plated with gold. Although this statue was consecrated in 752, it has been damaged and repaired in the following centuries. The current head was made during the Edo period (1650-1867). 

Outside of Todaiji, an enormous structure housing Japan's largest Buddha

The largest Buddha in Japan

One of the guardians of the Buddha. Many of the statues in Nara are carved from wood rather than stone

By this time, I was ready for lunch. So I found a recommended local restaurant and got in line to enter. I remember waiting in line for about 25 minutes before I was actually seated in this popular cafe!

Waiting in line to enter a restaurant that serves a Nara specialty, kawameshi

Kamameshi is a rice dish cooked with different toppings (I chose the recommended shrimp, eel, and green peas) in a metal bowl with a wooden top. And it was delicious! I was seated at a table with couple who were in Nara for the day, and were very pleasant to talk with. We both mentioned going to a local sake brewery located in the trendy Naramachi district, so we decided to head there together after lunch. Along the way we made a couple stops!

At the entrance of Nara Park there were a couple of Cherry Blossom trees with winter blooms!

Before heading to the sake shop, we stopped by a famous little mitarashi dango shop. Dango is a sticky Japanese confection made of rice flour, and it comes in many flavors which are eaten year round or even reserved for special seasons. Mitarashi is a type which is plain white dango grilled and then topped with a sweet soy sauce. After this little treat, we went to the Harushika Sake Brewery. There I sat down for a tasting and was given samples of five varieties of sake with an explanation of each one provided by the staff.

Grilling some fresh mitarashi dango

Day 2 in Nara

My second day in Nara I woke up early ready to see a few last minute sights before making my way back to Ishikawa. My first mission was to find a high place from which I could look out over the city. There is no tower in Nara, however the City building has a rooftop observatory so I headed that way.

Here you can see  the view of Todaiji looming over the trees on the left, and to the right the burnt Wakakusama Hill. It is burned annually in a cooperative event between the priests of Todaiji and Kasaga Taisha

This view shows Empress Komyo's five storied pagoda rising above the Nara skyline

My next stop was the Isuien Garden, carefully laid out with stepping stone paths and expertly located ponds and teahouses. 

One of the three tea houses located in the garden

I spent the rest of the afternoon walking up and down the shopping streets of Nara. They were full of little shops purveying traditional goods, modern goods, vintage clothes, sweet and salty treats and more. Nara has lots of stores specializing in handmade everything from foods to tapestries. On my out of town I stopped for a couple last minute specialty foods.

I went to an old calligraphy brush shop, where the lady taught me how to sculpt the bristles and make my own handmade calligraphy brush.

Tea flavored kit kats that I found in Kyoto- very tasty. Since coming to Japan I have tasted many different flavors of kit kats and with each new flavor I am more filled with pity that America only gets plain chocolate ones, when the other flavors are so much better!

A Nara specialty called kaki no ha sushi is pictured below- it usually made from salmon, mackerel and trout. The fish is cured and then placed on rice that is inside a wooden box. The sushi is then compressed, and cut into rectangles. After that each piece is wrapped in a cured persimmon leaf and boxed up again. This process of preparation helps the sushi to keep longer, so it is a great food for traveling or picnics.