立山

The first weekend of October I hiked Mt. Tateyama, one of the three sacred mountains in Japan. Tateyama has an elevation of 3,015 m (9,892 feet) and is located in the Toyama prefecture. Climbing this mountain, and the accompanying range, made for the most fatiguing yet simultaneously rewarding day of my life to this point. 

The journey started at 5:00 a.m. driving to Tateyama station to meet the group of ALT's who decided to make the climb together, about 20 of us in all. From Tateyama station we took a cable car up the mountain and then a 50 minute bus ride to the Murodo plateau station. At this point, elevation 2,450 m, the hike on foot started. 

This was my first mountain climb, and I learned that while ascents are mind-breaking for me, descents are no problem at all! Discussing this with my hiking buddies, I heard that physically the descents are considered to be much harder, because the impact on your knees is much worse. However, I do not seem to find this to be a problem, rather the mental obstacle of overcoming the ascent is what affects me the most. 

After one and a half hours of climbing, we reached the summit of Tateyama! The views were gorgeous, and it was awesome to know that I had just climbed this mountain. We took about half an hour to take pictures, chat about our victory over the mountain, and gorge ourselves on snacks!

The Shrine perched on the rocky summit

Eating and being exhausted (little did I know what was coming!)

First time I have actually seen a sign warning of the danger of losing your phone to the toilet!

I was mesmerized by this cloud that drifted in to surround us at the mountain peak.

A view from the summit

After paying our respects at the shrine, myself and three others chose to continue climbing a loop around the mountain range while the others in our group turned back and went down the way we came up. Our loop extended the climb by four or five hours and granted us the opportunity to see so many spectacular views! Continuing the trail over the mountain range with three or four more peaks was surely the right choice in my opinion, I felt so rewarded after that extended climb, much more than the initial (although it is the main and famous) peak of Tateyama. 

Crossing the range was a pleasurable hike, since we were already on top of the mountain it was mostly ridge walking at this point with some up and down scrambles over loose rocky areas. There were also a couple times when the path narrowly hugged the side of the mountain, and we had to crab walk as the Japanese say to continue the hike. One mis-step could easily have left us tumbling down the dangerously steep side of the mountain. 

While climbing, every so often, we stopped to look back at the mountain range and point out peaks we had just been on like an hour before- that engendered such a feeling of triumph and accomplishment and gave me the energy to keep walking even though it had already been a long day. 

After five hours of steady hiking we came to our final descent down the mountain, already thoroughly exhausted. I was so happy at having this accomplishment behind me, I had climbed a mountain, not just any mountain one of the sacred mountains of Japan. In my feelings of triumph I half skipped, half ran down the mountain, smiling and joyous the whole way! My climbing partner, being the normal kind of climber that finds descents difficult, slowed down, donned a sour expression, and worried over her knees on the way down. But we were almost done with our climb, so with words of encouragement to each other we quickly made our way down, the final thrust of our journey on the mountain!

We finished our descent, and walked through a campground and headed back to Murodo. When suddenly we came upon a huge stone staircase imposing itself between us and the Murodo plateau station. A staircase of about 20 FLIGHTS.

I was not happy. After climbing to the top of Tateyama, hiking a loop around the mountain range over 3-4 more peaks and then descending the mountain, we had to go back up by stairs?!!??! 

We had to climb the stairs in order to reach Murodo station, where our group was waiting for us so we could take the last bus out to get back to the train station. We had received messages from our friends that there was only one bus left, and we did not have time to waste. Here my partner and I switched roles. She bounded up the rocky steps, while I spiraled down from my high of climbing the mountain. 

I was inordinately incensed over having to climb back up after having already finished the mountain climb. Also, at this point the exhaustion really set in, by this time we had been climbing and hiking for over five hours, and I literally had to drag my legs with each step up. Several times I stopped where I was standing, certain that I could not possibly move any more. But then I thought, "Well I can either stand here all night, or I can walk myself up these stairs." Even though my legs felt like lead, I somehow mustered the strength, one step at a time, to overcome the seemingly endless flights of stairs. 

Finally we reached the top and got back to Murodo station, with only twenty minutes to spare before the last bus left. We rewarded ourselves by eating wonderful steamed meat dumplings from a vendor inside the station, our first bites of hot/fresh food all day. The total climb was six hours and was an unbelievably rewarding experience. I have never seen anything so awe-inspiring as the views from the top of the mountain range, and this trip I hope is going to be the first of more climbs to come.